The shoreline is affected by waves (produced by wind at sea) and tides (produced by the gravitational effect of the moon and sun) . Waves are caused by wind. Wave height in the open ocean is determined by three factors.
What are the effects of coastal processes?
As global sea level rises
How do waves affect the shoreline?
As waves hit the shoreline over time they erode it and push it further inland . When larger and stronger waves hit the shoreline, such as in a storm, more shoreline is eroded. ... The headland receives most of the waves’ energy and consequently protects the bay from erosion.
How do waves affect a coastal town?
The breaking waves
Where are the best waves?
- Pipeline, Oahu. Hawaii Pipeline is a fixture on the surf tour circuit for a reason. ...
- Supertubes, Jeffreys Bay. South Africa In short: Supertubes lives up to its name. ...
- Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca. ...
- Lima, Peru. ...
- Gold Coast. ...
- Zuma Beach, Malibu. ...
- Manu Bay, Raglan. ...
- Hossegor.
What are the 4 types of coastal erosion?
Destructive waves erode through four main processes; Hydraulic Action, Compression, Abrasion and Attrition .
What are some ways to slow down coastal erosion?
Present beach erosion prevention methods include sand dunes, vegetation, seawalls, sandbags, and sand fences . Based on the research conducted, it is evident that new ways to prevent erosion must be obtained. Each way that is currently used has extensive negative effects on beaches and their natural tendencies.
How do coastal waves work?
Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in a circular motion . The ocean is never still. ... Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual disturbance creates a wave crest.
What are the top 5 best places to surf big waves in the world?
- Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii.
- Supertubes, Jeffrey’s Bay, South Africa. ...
- Teahupo’o, Tahiti, French Polynesia. ...
- Uluwatu and Kuta, Bali, Indonesia. ...
- P-Pass, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia. ...
- Maverick’s, California. ...
- Hossegor, France. ...
- Puerto Escondido, Southern Oaxaca, Mexico. ...
Which coast has better waves?
The Pacific Ocean on the West Coast has a greater expanse than the Atlantic Ocean on the East Coast. This means that the fetch (the distance over which the wind blows) is greater on the West Coast than on the East Coast.
What is the biggest wave ever?
The biggest wave that was ever recorded by humans was in Lituya Bay on July 9th, 1958 . Lituya Bay sits on the Southeast side of Alaska. A massive earthquake during the time would trigger a megatsunami and the tallest tsunami in modern times. 1.4 How Did The Biggest Wave Ever Recorded Come About?
What are the 5 processes of coastal erosion?
Erosional processes along coastlines include: (1) the direct effects of hydraulic action, wedging, and cavitation by waves; (2) abrasion (corrasion), using sand, gravel, and larger rock fragments as tools; (3) attrition of the rock particles themselves during this abrasive action; (4) salt weathering or fretting; (5) ...
What are the 3 coastal processes?
The three principle marine processes that influence coasts are erosion, transportation and deposition .
What is the main cause of coastal erosion?
What causes coastal erosion? Coastal erosion is typically driven by the action of waves and currents , but also by mass wasting processes on slopes, and subsidence (particularly on muddy coasts). ... On coastal headlands, such processes can lead to undercutting of cliffs and steep slopes and contribute to mass wasting.
What can be done to manage the impacts of coastal erosion?
One common strategy for dealing with coastal erosion is beach nourishment —placing additional sand on a beach to serve as a buffer against erosion or to enhance the recreational value of the beach.
How can you help in reducing the effects of coastal processes in your community?
Additional approaches use natural or restored habitats to help reduce the impact of waves and storm surge, and/or building design and nonstructural land-use strategies to reduce the consequences of a hazardous event.
