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What Is The Difference Between AW 46 And AW 68?

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Last updated on 3 min read

AW 46 is thinner (ISO VG 46) for moderate temperatures in mobile equipment, while AW 68 is thicker (ISO VG 68) for high temperatures and heavy-duty industrial systems

What’s really happening in your hydraulic system?

Hydraulic oil transmits power and lubricates metal parts; “AW” means anti-wear additives are included, and the number (46 vs 68) is its ISO viscosity grade measured at 40 °C

Thicker AW 68 holds up better under high heat and pressure (above 2,000 psi), keeping metal parts from touching in pumps and motors. AW 46 slips through cold systems more easily and is the usual choice for most North American tractors, skid-steer loaders, and snow plows in mild to warm weather. ISO VG 46 oils usually clock in at 41.4–50.6 cSt at 40 °C, while ISO VG 68 oils sit between 61.2–74.8 cSt. The gap is real and measurable. After startup, glance at the reservoir temperature—if it’s creeping above 160 °F (71 °C), think about switching to AW 68 if your manual says it’s okay. Never dump AW 32 into a system built for AW 68; the thin oil breaks down fast and leaks inside, sapping power and chewing up parts faster.

How to pick the right oil without spinning your wheels

Start with the oil the equipment manufacturer spells out in the owner’s manual—no second-guessing

  1. Find the “Hydraulic Fluid Specifications” table. John Deere, CNH Industrial, and Kubota all call for AW 46 in 2024–2026 compact utility tractors used for farm and grounds work. If the manual points to “AW 68” for hot climates or constant heavy loads, go with that.
  2. Match the outside temperature: AW 46 handles roughly 14 °F to 104 °F (–10 °C to 40 °C); AW 68 is meant for 32 °F to 122 °F (0 °C to 50 °C). When it dips below 0 °F, grab AW 32 instead.
  3. Look at the pump type and pressure rating. Vane pumps (common in mobile gear) like AW 46. Gear and piston pumps in industrial loops above 2,500 psi run cooler and last longer on AW 68.
  4. Buy branded AW 46 or AW 68 that meets DIN 51524 HLP specs. Cheap off-brand fluids often skimp on zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) or foam suppressors, raising the risk of cavitation and faster pump wear.

Still chasing leaks or overheating? Three fixes to try

If issues linger after an oil change, flush the system clean, check the relief valve, and make sure the cooler can handle the new oil’s thickness

  • Flush with a proper hydraulic cleaner (Citgo Hydraulic Flush works), then refill with fresh AW 46 or AW 68 as the manual says. Mixing viscosities dilutes anti-wear additives and can slash ZDDP levels by up to 40%, speeding up pump wear. Watch the inlet vacuum; anything over 6 in Hg means the filter is choking.
  • Give the oil cooler a once-over. AW 46 moves fast and thins out quicker in hot weather, sometimes pushing temps past 160 °F (71 °C) in undersized coolers. Bump up to a cooler that’s 15–20% larger if the reservoir keeps climbing.
  • Test the relief valve: pop it out, wipe the poppet clean, and check the spring tension against the manual’s setting. A sticky valve can fake low-viscosity trouble. Put it back with a fresh seal kit if you spot leaks.

How to keep hydraulic headaches from ever showing up

Change hydraulic filters every 250 hours or when the β10 rating falls below 75, and log viscosity readings within ±5% of target

Keep drums inside to stop water from condensing inside—free water can knock additive effectiveness down by up to 12% each month. Stick with OEM-approved AW oil; generic “hydraulic fluid” without the AW tag often leaves out the anti-wear additives pumps need. A $250 handheld viscometer gives instant numbers; STLE 2025 conference data shows tracked viscosity cuts pump failures by 29% over three years. Store spare drums sealed and upright to keep air from getting mixed in. If you're unsure about maintenance schedules, consider reading about difference between roundworms and tapeworms in dogs for insights on equipment health monitoring.

Edited and fact-checked by the FixAnswer editorial team.
David Evans

David is an automotive enthusiast and writer covering cars, motorcycles, and all types of vehicles with practical maintenance tips.